We woke to the Roman traffic outside our window and listened to BBC talk about the election in India as we prepared for the marathon hike day in Roma.
The coliseum (Colosseum) was first on our trek. Huge, old, and amazing. (No, that was our waiter last night). Anyway, the place was quite an engineering feat. Makes you want to watch Gladiator again. The entire floor was wood, with trap doors where they'd send animals, soldiers, and people who didn't pay their parking tickets. You never knew what was coming up at you until it arrived.
The place seats 60-70,000 people, depending on who you ask. They kicked off the shows with 100 days of games, all free, sponsored by politicians who wanted votes and public support. Gladiators, exotic animal fights, flooding it and reenacting famous sea battles, and a couple of Jesse Ventura WWA Smackdowns. 2000 gladiators and 9000 animals died to entertain the city and take their minds off their dissatisfaction with the political process. (Imagine walking out into the gates and trying to find your chariot in the parking lot? It's a lot like leaving a Twins game, but not so many dead bodies.)
Outside the coliseum we walked under the Arch of Constantine, the place that commemorated his 312 AD victory over a rival Roman general. The battle made Constantine ruler of the western world and, like the saying, "to the victor went the spoils."
His first act was to legalize the Christian movement. Overnight a Jewish break-off sect became the official religion of the western world. The night before the fight he had a vision of a cross in the sky, and that cross led him to victory. So he baptized everything except his sword, and rode on to change the world. (Good thing he didn't see the Golden Arches in the sky or we'd all be worshipping hamburgers)
Speaking of McDonalds, the nicest one in Europe is near the Spanish Steps, where all the college students on holiday gather to cruise for the opposite sex. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
From Constantine's gate we walked the Roman Forum, where everywhere you step you tumble over a dizzying array of ancient artifacts. Nero, Augustus, Octavius, Hadrian, the Vestal Virgins (who made a ton of money if they stayed virgins for 30 years and kept the home fire burning all that time. If either of those two duties wasn't accomplished, they were sealed in a tomb with a candle and a loaf of bread.
The whole thing was almost overload. No, it was overload. Everything is ancient, reeking with history, and fascinating. No, that was our waiter last night...The Goths or Visigoths or some rival soccer team sacked the whole place in 400 something. A thousand years of popes sacked the ruins of the ruins. After that, any time they wanted rocks to build a palace or church and didn't want to travel to find smooth stone or spend any money they came here. What remains of the remains remains very impressive, and travel books show you overleafs of what it all looked like. It was, and is, grand.
After a siesta for Rich and a grocery stop for Arlyce (buying cookies for Kathryn and Joseph's classes that taste like rocks) we ventured out again and taxied from the hotel the Trevi Fountain. Arlyce threw the rest of our money in the fountain so we would come back again. Rich dove in and retrieved most of it.
Then, on toward the Spanish Steps, past 50 soldiers with M16s on their way to guard the visiting Spanish President. The steps were beautiful in the street light. College kids sang to guitars, laughed, joked, smoked and cruised back and forth, looking for the opposite sex. Arlyce and I were the oldest people there and no one asked us for our hotel number. Oh well, maybe next time.
That's the news from Roma. Tomorrow it's on to the Vatican for an art blitz. I may have to take the afternoon to do a FINKtank with Il Papa and eight of his cardinals about the future of the relics who don't get phone numbers at the Spanish Steps.
Ciao for now.
Rich